There’s not much that would entice the average tourist to Rwanda.
There are the ‘Gorillas de Montagnes’.
As we draw into the city from the airport there is a circle of crudely carved metal structures that announces their importance. Mostly the overriding impression from my approach is of their rear ends. They are positioned in a circle facing the seat of government, the ‘Pentagon’ , (as it is referred to by the locals) . The gorillas look they are about ready to ward off the invasive ‘Muzungus’, the foreigners. Damascene, our FXB host , is a dark skinned, large man with an infectious full bellied laugh. He takes us to the Iris Guesthouse situated in a leafy, affluent looking suburb of Kigali It reminds me of Johannesburg – red roofs, high walls, security guards, bright green manicured lawns adjacent to the smooth road we travel on in our big four wheel drive, so necessary for the many dirt roads we will travel on later. The guesthouse has welcoming staff and the atmosphere is warm and homely. The travelers appear to be mainly American (hence the Pentagon reference and Voice of America on the radio) either visiting the reconciliation educational programmes related to Rwanda’s dark Genocide history or missionaries come to spread God’s love. Continue reading